Cape Town

23 October to 9 November  2018

Cape Town. The Mother City. Home. I grew up in Cape Town, in a suburb called Rondebosch; I spent the first 18 years of my life in this wonderful town, but unfortunately have not lived there for the past 15 years. However, I have visited at least once and more often than not two to three times a year, especially when I was still at university in Pretoria.

This visit, I returned to my home town to see my brother get married. With me being 33 and Chris 36 most of our travel back to South Africa over the past 4 years has been for friends’ weddings. Living overseas, unfortunately, means we miss out on a lot, but we have tried our best to be present for as many celebrations as humanly (and financially) possible. My little brother’s wedding was no exception. 

Table Mountain seen from Rondebosch Common

Unfortunately, due to the fact that Chris had just started a new job, he was unable to join me until the last week and only spent 3 nights in Cape Town, so my mission around Cape Town became a 1VetAdventure!!

My mom and dad still live in the same house I grew up in and returning home always carries an element of nostalgia – sleeping in my four-poster bed in my childhood bedroom is a trip down memory lane. 

I have managed to maintain many of my school friendships (even though it has been 15 years since we finished), and have become even better friends with some who weren’t my besties at school!  This always makes Cape Town trips special (and chaotic), as I ensure I make the time and take the effort to see as many of these people as possible.

The South African national flower- The King Protea

This time round, with the wedding celebrations and my whole family descending on Cape Town, it was a hell of a lot of family time, which as much as I love can be super stressful! However, as I sit at the airport writing this, given the chance, I wouldn’t change a thing about my trip back home!! 

Table Mountain seen from Tamboerskloof

Every time I come home, I like to plan a few ‘fun things’ to do, so at least I see more of the town than the local shopping centre, Cavendish Square, where my mom seems to be a regular! Unfortunately, I had to study for an exam that was only a few days after the wedding but luckily, the university I study through were happy for me to write my exam in South Africa which made it a bit easier. With the added studying time, along with regular holiday admin, like renewing driver’s license and visiting banks, as well as my brother’s wedding, I only managed four out of the six ‘fun things’ on my list… but I did manage two extra ones that weren’t on my list, so all in all a pat on the back for me!

So, my Cape Town highlights:

Kirstenbosch

The botanical gardens of Cape Town are outstanding and probably the best I have come across nation- and world-wide. Perched against the mountain and looking over the city, it has the best of both. A picnic here is one of the things I remember as a child – running on the lawns, seeing the guinea fowl (which seem to have become cheekier than I remember), playing in the streams, catching tadpoles. Their summer concerts filled much of my university years when I was back for the summer break. It really is a space that offers so much. I love flowers and have in recent years become slightly obsessed with national flower the protea, which is what I was after and managed to find a few. The gardens are great for kids; there is a dinosaur walk, a tree canopy walk called the ‘Boomslang’ (Afrikaans for the tree snake), as well as many long stretches of lawn to run around on and numerous small streams to play in.

Bird of paradise flower at Kirstenbosh

The scenery lifts the spirits and it really is one of those places you cannot help but smile at and enjoy. This trip back, the family did a late lunch/early supper picnic – entrance price is R70 per adult and is free for kids under 5 (Tuesdays are free for pensioners). Well worth the visit and it is the start of the hike up Table Mountain via Skeleton Gorge (which I have yet to do – maybe  on my list for next visit?)!

Teddy Bear Mountain
Pin cushion protea flower

Mount Nelson Hotel 

Spa and High Tea combo

For my birthday, my parents treated my sister and I to a Mount Nelson ‘experience’ called Afternoon Bliss. I have done this before and loved it. This time round the massage was a little crappier than normal but everyone else seemed to have a good time. Possibly, living in Asia, where I have a massage at least twice a month, I am a little spoilt! I have decided I need to be bruised to feel like it has been therapeutic!

After the massage you head over to the lounge for high tea – one of the best I have ever been to. Trust me…high tea is my thing and this has the best variety I have come across. What I really love is that they do the South African classics (think milk tart, koeksisters) and their savoury pastry’s often have South African inspired flavours (biltong toppings, Malay curry pies). The tea options are vast – but being with my family, we ordered 4x English Breakfast teas. Chris would have died! I am very much a person who sticks to what I like and am not very adventurous, unlike him. If I have been to a place and something has worked, I stick to it! The seating is for 2 hours which is plenty time to eat your fill from the buffet. The savouries come in a 3 tier stand and you can order more or any of them if you wish. The staff are great, very friendly, and the setting is beautiful. Mount Nelson turned 100 this year and it’s great to be able to go and enjoy some of Cape Town’s old school glamour for a relatively affordable price tag. High tea alone costs R380 pp and the experience is R1200 pp.

Vergenoeged Runner Ducks

I have wanted to see this for the longest time. I love the winelands – it always amazes me how driving 30-40 minutes outside of Cape Town you can be transported to a whole different world. You really wouldn’t think you were in Africa. It is so great to be able to feel like you are on holiday, while having only driven a short distance. Vergenoeged is a wine farm I am less familiar with. I first read about their novel pest control (ducks) a few years ago, but haven’t managed to find time to visit and see them. Having my nephews around to entertain definitely helps push activities like this. It’s fun and slightly juvenile. The ducks are put on parade twice a day and this basically means they are rounded up from the dam area and herded through the gates and do a 100m walk past the gawking humans. It really is very sweet and the mish mash of duck colours creates a wonderful pallet. My nephews squealed in delight when one of the white ducks with an Afro-like plume walked past! Really just so bizarre and super cute. The parade doesn’t take long, but the day we visited there was a craft market on with other activities for kids as well as wine tasting and a variety of food stalls. If that doesn’t grab your fancy there are numerous other wine farms in the area to visit – we headed to Spier for a picnic. Entrance to Vergenoeged is free.

The runner ducks of Vergenoegd Wine Estate

Boschendal Picnic

We organised this for the day before my brother got married (he was getting married on this wine farm). The Boschendal staff are fantastic… they set up a picnic spot with a back rest and picnic rug to add comfort. You then get a picnic basket for 2 to share filled with delicious treats. A whole rotisserie chicken, homemade bread and butter, salad with the most scrumptious dressing, soft cheeses (my favourite), and then homemade marshmallows and ice cream to finish. They have music playing and you can order drinks/wine from the bartenders. The setting is stunning and it really makes for a relaxing boozy lunch – highly recommended! Cost: R460 for a Werf picnic basket for 2 people. 

Bonus outings… 

Sunset Picnic on Glen Beach

Nestled between Camps Bay and Clifton, Glen beach is a less known that its famous neighbours. This makes it slightly less chaotic with the benefit of being off the road (unlike Camps Bay) and with very few stairs compared to Clifton 4th. The large boulders offer a scenic setting and provide seclusion and highly sought-after shelter from the notorious Cape Winds. From this spot one can take in views of Lions Head and the Twelve Apostles, and the surfing opportunities are supposed to be world class. I visited on an unusually hot Friday in October, and instantly regretted wearing jeans. However, being Cape Town, the weather can turn and usually as soon as the sun goes down it is freezing and this fear often gets the better of me. I met up with a few friends and we each bought snacks to share. Drinking alcohol on beaches in South Africa is illegal, and thus most people opt for alcoholic beverages that can be poured into innocent plastic cups. Don’t be surprised if you see police sampling beach goers’ drinks and pouring alcohol out. The sunset on this particular evening was outstanding and the relaxed summer vibe is the ultimate way to start the weekend. I give this spot two thumbs up!

12 Apostles Mountain Range seen from Glen Beach
Sunset on Glen Beach

Walk on Sea Point Promenade

Cape Town in summer can be one of the most outdoorsy and active of places; Capetonians always strike me as the most motivated people (opposite of me). On the day I left, I met a few of my friends for a walk along the Sea Point promenade. After much debate and a heavy supper of steak and wine the night before, we had ditched the plan to walk up Lions Head and decided on the ‘prom’ instead. Walking from the light house to the public swimming pool was refreshing and a perfect way to start a day. It’s not taxing (flat the whole way) and you can grab a coffee at the public swimming pool – it is also dog friendly, and what is better than seeing a bunch of dogs in the morning! As you walk you overlook the Atlantic seaboard and watch the waves crashing on the rocky shore below. The grass area on the opposite side is dotted with public gym equipment – ensuring no one has an excuse come summer time! There are numerous art sculptures along the path, making it not only active but cultural too. The drought in the Cape has left the area looking a little weathered but that doesn’t bother me – I still think it’s a stunning, accessible walk for all people. 

Lions Head Mountain seen from the Sea Point promenade

That is all I managed to squeeze in on this trip, but Cape Town has so much to offer and is a truly brilliant city. I’ll be sure to share more with you!!! 

Practical information about Cape Town and South Africa 

Many people are wary about crime and visiting Cape Town – I usually tell them not to be ridiculous – until one of my friends from Hong Kong got mugged on a beach! My ‘take home’ message is: be vigilant and don’t make yourself more vulnerable than needs be and carry the minimum in terms of valuables. Lastly, safety in numbers wins the day! Use common sense and follow your instincts. If you feel uncomfortable, get yourself out of the situation. All easier said than done, I know, but I don’t think it’s a reason not to travel to a great country!

Chris and Tiff at Boschendal Wine Estate